Between Worlds, A Bridge Too Far?

The "Glen" is a small Zapatista village on hilly land at the edge of the Lacandon Jungle. One hundred families came down from bad land further up the canyon, less than 2 years ago, to occupy the Finca. On the frontline between Zapatista territory and government controlled space, there is a military base 3km away, and army convoys constantly patrol the road 1km from the community. Tension is high and the people, Tseltal and Tolojobal peasants, made a request for an international presence to monitor the situation.

How The IMG Got To The Glen

During discussions with other Solidarity activists in San Cristobal, Chiapas, at the start of 1996, criticism was voiced about the manner and direction that ‘solidarity’ work took. Either it was following a ‘development model’ initiating projects in villages that would improve the quality of life for the residents, or straight financial donations given over to an organization. Neither seemed to create a genuine exchange in which partners from different worlds both give and take experience, resources, and political, social and cultural ideas. The desired model of international solidarity would be a revolving door, with the key aims of intensifying struggle on both a local and international level. With this in mind, the idea of solidarity encampments was raised. For foreign groups to forge direct relations with distinct grassroots organizations or communities. Practically, this entailed bypassing the usual channel to the grassroots, via resident NGOs, to hook up directly with the people on the frontline. The process by which the Irish Mexico Group began its solidarity encampment grew from this starting point. The community of the Glen had solicited an international presence through the Fray Bartolome Human Rights Centre, creating the space for foreigners to stay in the village and accompany the community, acting as a deterrent to military intervention, or violations of the San Andres Peace Accords which prohibited military presence in Zapatista space.

An activist already working closely with the community on development projects was approached for further ideas. He suggested a more consolidated ‘Comite Irlandes’ involvement. Fray Bart peace camps are officially neutral while direct solidarity encampments implicitly support the struggle. The idea was discussed within the IMG, and given the reservations about whether we could maintain a presence over a long period of time, we agreed to propose to the community an initial commitment of 6 months, and then to see how it stood.

The first IMG activist arrived at the beginning of ‘97 and spoke to ‘responsables’ about proposed Irish involvement with the following aims:

• to accompany the community;
• to work alongside the community in development projects or day-to-day labour;
• to act as a voice beyond, using media in Ireland and internationally to raise awareness and provide information;
• to channel resources into community based projects;
• to exchange ideas of global struggle and resistance.

The responsables welcomed the proposed Irish involvement and the project was presented at a community assembly, questions were answered and a consensus was reached on the initial six month presence.

Month-By-Month, Solidarity Unfolding

January- Time for clearing land to plant maiz, for burning new patches and making land ready for planting. Irish activist takes up residence in encampment. Negotiations with mosquitoes, snakes, rats, a pestilent cat and late-night speed-freak roosters come to no avail: life is almost intolerable. Living quarters and kitchen space built up. Work begins on a water project funded by local NGO, Tasch. The water used by villagers is contributing to a high level of ill-health amongst both children and adults. Irish volunteer works alongside the men digging 7km ditch.

February- Time for drying the coffee and selling to the local cafe dealers (24 pesos, $3 per kilo). Work continues on water project, albeit slowly, and the cause of Ireland is explained to anybody who cares to listen. Much conversations about the gap between worlds, about the margin of poverty and the struggle against neoliberalismo and imperialism. Meanwhile the life and times of a Zapatista village is experienced.

March- Time to pick fruit, oranges and bananas, and take honey from the beehives. It rains a chinga. The regional co-op opens full time in the community, selling all the essentials with start-up money which, ironically enough, is part of the $150,000 solicited from Ireland last year after the IMG delegation. Work grinds to a halt on the water project, as few villagers are prioritising the work. Time for harvesting is the reason given. Moreover, people have a lack of trust in the whole project as the government built a shoddy system 8 years ago which never worked.

April- More burning fields and chopping down the forests. Valley fills with smoke as people clear patches for planting. Preparations for the festival of 10 April, Zapata’s anniversary. IMG are to sponsor the day with prizes in the basketball tournament, ‘pinatas’ for the children and refreshments for the elders. Meanwhile a fundraising party is held in Dublin, raising awareness about the project and the Zapatistas. IMG representative addresses assembled community, on behalf of the people of Ireland in general, and the handful of IMG-istas in particular. Prizes given and lots of craic.

May- Water project definitively abandoned as leaders explain that the community has chosen to throw its weight in with M*, a Zapatista town nearby to solicit a huge government sponsored water project from the same spring serving both the Glen and M*. Tasch are disillusioned with the manner in which the community conducted the whole episode. Questions of autonomy are raised in view of proposed government involvement. It emerges that people are also concerned about the future, about imminent war, and feel they have nothing to lose if the government will pay for everything. Historic arrival of second Irish Volunteer, who in the absence of water works, begins work on a latrine project.

June- Time to weed the milpas as the maiz grows high. Preparations made for arrival of TnaG television crew, who have been invited to make a documentary in the village. They arrive, full of sound and fury, and the documentary is deemed an epic. The community finds this media circus all very amusing. Gaeilge resounds around the Glen. IMG activist expelled from country after interrogation in migration office. No reason given but its quite clearly part of the Governments policy of expelling elements who they deem ‘guilty’ of working with Zapatistas.

July- Time for planting coffee and weeding the milpas. New patches prepared to plant beans. The women form a weaving co-op to sell garments in the market. The documentary concludes. Shortly afterwards 3 more Irish volunteers arrive. The 3 women work alongside the women of the community in various co-ops. A problem arises of villagers consistently asking for money. This has arisen primarily because members of the TnaG crew, despite been expressly told not to, gave money to individuals. The cause of international solidarity in this little microcosm is put back several steps. The level of consciousness about why the IMG are here varies greatly from individual to individual, from full support to contempt. On a more general level, it reflects the previous history of foreigners coming into the Zapatista zone, giving lots of money and leaving. This is what we have to speak up about, and instil, a consciousness of what our role is, other than that of benefactors.

August- Irish presence in Glen has now been almost continuous since April; the compaÒero elected responsable for Irish matters, Marcos, requests a formal arrangement to be worked out with Fray Bart Human Rights Centre to coordinate a permanent presence. The IMG are given the responsibility of accrediting volunteers, which is a positive sign of confidence by the community for our endeavours. Indeed, there is a noticeable increase in trust and confidence in the Irish presence allround. Grand arrival of two new IMG activists who impress the community with their communicative abilities and report on the Gathering in the Spanish state. They work alongside the women in the weaving co-op and other projects.

Towards A Peoples-Based Solidarity ?

Eight months, the presence of 7 IMG activists, an Irish family of 4, a TV crew of 5 and an Irish journalist has beset the Glen. A delegation to come in September. International solidarity from the IMG has resulted in a continuous presence, much hands-on work in the fields and the co-ops, several articles, a network TV documentary pending, a photo-exhibition, resources entering the community and the beginning of a process of mutual understanding of each partner’s situation. And yet, always questions, every hour of everyday, what are the other, simultaneous realities of our presence? Does our presence represent an imposition of uglier aspects of our culture on the community? Does our presence, with our fancy clothes, cameras and wealth create a burgeoning consumer desire? Are we naive to believe our notions of international solidarity impact the community beyond providing a little diversion and giving occasional resources? Do enough people have an understanding of why we are here? Do vestiges of the old ‘patron’ attitudes remain? We even reside in the ‘Casa Grande’, the old Finca manager’s house! What has the community learned from our presence? That the world is implacably unjust, that we can travel the world, own lots of things and work much, much less harder than them? That we are the people who always leave? That there are insurmountable social and cultural gaps between the two worlds? That the bridge we aspire to create is an illusion? The project continues. New people will come, tired people will move away, activists will fall back into the old world and forget about the village in the Glen. Then the struggle becomes one against amnesia; and armed with the energy and insights garnered from the time spent amongst the ‘forever dead’ to go further, focusing on the everyday battle in our own neoliberal colony.

Watching the basketball tournament in the Glen on 10 April. The Irish Mexico Group provided the prizes.

Photo: Tim Russo